Top tourist attraction is the Blue Grotto "Grotta azzurra". If Capri is overcrowded with tourists you may even have to wait for hours. But if you reach Capri rather early (e.g. before 10.30), it makes sense, to go straight to the grotto, before still more people arrive at the Marina Grande. There are many boats waiting to take you directly from Marina Grande to the grotto. But looking at the local situation you can see, that it is probably better (and at lower cost), to go by bus to the Blue Grotto, (2). Take the funicolare (cable railway) to Capri-Town. The ticket counter (Biglietteria) for the funicolare is at the end of the quay (to the right). At the piazzetta in Capri keep right to get to the small "bus terminal" and take the bus to Anacapri. There is another "bus terminal" in Anacapri, where you can take the bus to "Grotta azzurra". The tickets for the bus (at present 1.40 Euro) can always be bought on the bus.
If waiting periods seem to be very long, you should rather plan for one of the following walks. All of them (with the exception of nr. 5) start from the Piazzetta in Capri (town), where you get from the landing place (Marina Grande) by funicolare:
1. Tour approx. 90 minutes
Capri Piazzetta - Arco Naturale - Grotta di Matermania - Tragara - Capri Piazzetta
(My favourite walk). You will receive an impression of a very beautiful part of Capri, which is at the same time not as overcrowded as the shopping areas in Capri and Anacapri. On the left rear part of the Piazzetta starts the well marked way to "Arco Naturale", which coincides half the way with the way to "Villa Jovis". The place, where both ways folk is called "Della Croce" (there is also a bar with pizzeria). Pay attention to the sign post to "Arco Naturale".
The further you get away from the Piazzetta - passing magnificent private gardens - the more views open to the island. Finally you reach the beautifully situated restaurant "Le Grottelle", (2).
Before you step down the long stairways to "Grotta Matermania" you should enjoy the short excursion (through the garden of the restaurant) to Arco Naturale, (2) with marvelous views of Capri's beautiful landscape.
The fact that most tourists prefer the many small shops in Capri or in Anacapri to this part of the island with its shading trees and chirping birds makes this walk so relaxing and peaceful.
The Grotta Matermania, (2) was probably a nymphaeum. According to another hypothesis the Romans could have dedicated it to the Mater Magna (hence the actual name). But it could also be that it simply served as a sea bath. Indeed there are narrow paths in the further course of the way, where one can reach the sea. But these unofficial accesses to the sea may be dangerous. The only places for a bath in the sea are located at Marina Piccola.
Past some villas of partly prominent or even historic persons, as for example the Villa of Malaparte, you get on this way to places with wonderful views over the Scoglio del Monacone, the Faraglioni and the following coast. Finally you reach the Belvedere di Tragara with today's (since 1972) Hotel Punta Tragara. The house was designed by the famous architect Le Corbusier. The former "Villa Vismara" was for some time during the Second World War the head quarter of the allied forces acommodating Churchill, Eisenhower and general Clark. From here it is not very far back to the Piazzetta.
2. Tour (and back) approx. 25 minutes - suitable also for older and very young persons
Capri Piazzetta - Punta Tragara - Capri Piazzetta
Nobody should miss this short and easy way to the other side of the island. Starting from the Piazzetta you follow Via Vitt.Emanuele, then to the left you get via Via Camerelle to Via Tragara. From the Belvedere di Punta Tragara (as above) you have a wonderful view over one of Capri's landmarks "the Faraglioni" and the beautiful coastal scenery (as above) at Marina piccola and the Monte Solaro.
3. Tour (and back) approx. 60 minutes
Capri-Piazzetta - Gardens of Augustus - Marina Piccola - Capri-Piazzetta
Even though the Gardens of Augustus (Giardini di Augusto) are rather small, it is worth the short and easy walk. From here you have a beautiful view onto the Faraglioni. From the Piazzetta you pass Via Vitt.Emmanuele and Via Serena to get to the gardens. The serpentines of the famous Via Krupp connect the Augustus Gardens with Marina Piccola (20 minutes walk).
4. Tour (and back) approx. 90 minutes
Capri Piazzetta - Monte Tiberio with Villa Jovis - Capri Piazzetta
The Villa Jovis (the entrance fee to the excavation grounds currently amounts to 10 Euros) was the most important of several imperial residences on Capri. The Roman emperors Augustus and Tiberius governed from here for many years the Roman Empire. The order for the well known population census mentioned in the Bible is said to have come from here.
A special part of the cliff line is called Salto di Tiberio, because "unpleasant guests" of the emperor were forced here to jump down to death, which gives the whole place some macabre attraction. (Tiberius did not like to stay in Rome, because he detested its society. It is possible, that the "Salto Tiberio" may only be due to a malicious rumour.)
The first part of the way up to the folk "della Croce" is part of the description of the first tour. At the folk turn left (Via Tiberio) and go uphill to a height of 335 m. Of course you have a nice look over to the mainland.
5. Tour (and back) at least 90 minutes + waiting periods at the chair lift, (at Villa San Michele) and at the bus stop !
Anacapri - Monte Solaro ( - Villa San Michele)
From Marina Grande you take the funicolare to Capri and the bus to Anacapri (as described above with Blue Grotto). As an alternative there is an ancient pathway called "Scale Fenice" (in ancient times the only way) to go directly to Anacapri. But it is very steep and very arduous and may even be a little dangerous.
In contrast going by chair lift from Anacapri to Monte Solaro (589 meters above sea level) is very relaxing. The view from Monte Solaro, (2) is worthwhile. Alternatively there is also a footpath, which you might take into consideration for the way back.
Back in Anacapri, if there is enough time and not too many people waiting, you should also visit Villa San Michele, (2), (3), (4) of the Swedish physician and writer Axel Munthe (present entrance fee: 5 Euros). The Villa was built on the ruins of an antique Roman villa and offers a gorgeous view over Capri, Marina Grande and the mainland.
With sufficient time (and fitness) you may combine the trips. There are some more interesting proposals on the websites below ("Capritourism.com", "Capri.net", "Capriweb.com" and "Capridream.com" - all in English).
At the end of your visit to Capri you will probably notice, that the available time was rather short. Better plan for an early ship. In addition you benefit from the fact, that the island will not yet be overcrowded during the first hours.
The shortest way to Capri is from Sorrento. There are of course regular services with Naples (Molo Beverello and Mergellina), and in the summer with Ischia, Salerno and even Agropoli (near Paestum). It takes only 2 hours (one direction) to get from Agropoli (with stop in San Marco) with a Metro del Mare catamaran, (2).
Sorry !
- The preceding text is not a professional translation from the original german text, as I have only a limited knowledge of the English language.
If you like to improve this translation, please send your hints on mistakes and stylistic failures to webmaster@paestum.de
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